If you are new to jewelry making, the number of small components used in a necklace, bracelet, or pair of earrings can be confusing. These components are commonly called jewelry findings.
Jewelry findings are the functional parts used to connect, finish, secure, or decorate a piece of jewelry. They include clasps, jump rings, pins, bails, crimps, ear wires, and many other small components.
This jewelry findings glossary explains some of the most common terms you will encounter when designing, assembling, or purchasing jewelry supplies.
What Are Jewelry Findings?
Jewelry findings are the components used to assemble and finish jewelry. Some findings are primarily functional, such as clasps and jump rings, while others can also become visible design elements.
Common jewelry findings include:
- Clasps
- Jump rings
- Bails
- Head pins and eye pins
- Ear wires
- Crimp beads
- Bead caps
- Connectors
- Quality tags
- Slider beads
Choosing the correct finding is important not only for appearance, but also for the strength, comfort, and durability of the finished jewelry.
Bail
A bail is a finding used to attach a pendant, charm, or stone component to a necklace or chain.
Some bails are permanently soldered to a pendant, while others are designed to be attached without soldering. Bails are available in simple, decorative, pinch-style, and glue-on designs.
Common use: Attaching a pendant to a necklace chain.
Bead
A bead is a decorative component with a hole through it so that it can be strung onto wire, cord, thread, or chain.
Beads can be made from many materials, including:
- Gemstones
- Pearls
- Glass
- Sterling silver
- Gold-filled metal
- Ceramic
- Wood
- Crystal
Beads are available in many shapes, including round, rondelle, oval, tube, teardrop, and faceted styles.
Bead Cap
A bead cap is a decorative metal finding placed against one or both ends of a bead.
Bead caps can:
- Add detail to a design
- Frame a gemstone or pearl
- Hide imperfections around a drilled hole
- Make a simple bead appear larger or more finished
They are commonly used in earrings, pendants, and beaded necklaces.
Bezel
A bezel is a metal setting that surrounds and holds a gemstone.
In a traditional bezel setting, a thin rim of metal is pushed over the edge of the stone to secure it. Bezel settings are popular because they provide good protection around the edge of a gemstone and create a clean, finished appearance.
Cabochon
A cabochon is a gemstone that has been shaped and polished rather than cut into facets.
Most cabochons have:
- A smooth, rounded or domed top
- A flat or nearly flat back
Their flat backs make them well suited for bezel settings and glue-in jewelry settings.
Clasp
A clasp is the mechanism used to open and close a necklace, bracelet, or anklet.
Clasps are available in many styles, ranging from small functional closures to large decorative focal points.
Lobster Claw Clasp
A lobster clasp uses a spring-loaded lever to open a small section of the clasp.
It is one of the most commonly used closures for necklaces and bracelets because it is secure, compact, and available in many sizes.
Spring Ring Clasp
A spring ring clasp is a round clasp containing a spring-loaded inner section.
Pulling back the small lever opens the ring so it can attach to a jump ring, chain tab, or other connector.
Magnetic Clasp
A magnetic clasp contains magnets that pull the two ends of the clasp together.
Magnetic clasps can be easier to operate than conventional clasps and are especially useful in jewelry designed for easy fastening.
The strength of the magnets should be appropriate for the weight and intended use of the jewelry.
Toggle Clasp
A toggle clasp consists of two parts:
- A ring or decorative opening
- A bar that passes through the opening
Once the bar rotates across the opening, it prevents the jewelry from slipping apart.
Toggle clasps are often decorative enough to become part of the jewelry design itself.
Crimp Bead and Crimp Tube
A crimp bead or crimp tube is a small metal finding used to secure beading wire.
The crimp is compressed with crimping pliers or other suitable jewelry pliers, locking the wire in place.
Crimps are commonly used to:
- Attach a clasp to beading wire
- Finish gemstone or bead strands
- Secure multiple strands
- Hold certain components in position
A crimp cover can be placed over the finished crimp to give it a more polished appearance.
Ear Wire
An ear wire is the part of a dangling earring that passes through the pierced ear.
Many ear wires have a loop at the bottom that allows a charm, bead, gemstone, or other decorative component to be attached.
Common styles include:
- French hooks
- Fishhook ear wires
- Lever backs
- Kidney wires
Faceted Stone
A faceted gemstone has multiple flat, polished surfaces called facets.
These facets are cut at specific angles so that light reflects through and across the stone, creating brilliance and sparkle.
This is different from a cabochon, which normally has a smooth polished surface instead of multiple flat facets.
Gauge
Gauge is a measurement used to describe the thickness of wire or sheet metal.
For many jewelry wires, a higher gauge number means a thinner wire.
- 18 gauge is thicker than 20 gauge.
- 20 gauge is thicker than 22 gauge.
- 22 gauge is thicker than 24 gauge.
The proper gauge depends on the application. A jump ring used for a substantial clasp may require heavier wire than a delicate connector used with a fine chain.
Gold-Filled
Gold-filled is a mechanically bonded material consisting of a layer of karat gold bonded to a base-metal core.
Products marked 1/20 14K Gold Filled, for example, must contain at least 1/20 of their total metal weight in 14-karat gold.
Gold-filled material contains substantially more gold than conventional electroplated jewelry and generally provides better wear resistance when properly manufactured and cared for.
It is important to understand that gold-filled jewelry is not solid gold. Like other jewelry materials, its appearance and longevity can still be affected by wear, chemicals, polishing, and environmental conditions.
Gold Plated
Gold-plated jewelry has a layer of gold applied over another metal, usually through electroplating.
The durability of gold plating depends on several factors, including:
- Gold thickness
- Base metal
- Surface preparation
- Plating process
- Wear and exposure to chemicals
Gold-plated jewelry should not automatically be confused with gold-filled jewelry; the two materials are produced using different processes and contain very different amounts of gold.
Half-Drilled Bead
A half-drilled bead has a hole drilled only partway into the bead.
Instead of being strung onto wire, it is usually attached to a peg or post with jewelry adhesive.
Half-drilled pearls and gemstones are often used for:
- Stud earrings
- Pendants
- Rings
- Charms
Jump Ring
A jump ring is a small circular or oval metal connector used to join jewelry components.
Jump rings are among the most commonly used findings in jewelry making.
Typical uses include:
- Attaching clasps
- Connecting charms
- Joining chain sections
- Attaching pendants
- Connecting tags or extenders
Open Jump Ring
An open jump ring has a small opening where the two ends of the wire meet.
It can be opened with jewelry pliers, connected to another component, and closed again.
For best results, open a jump ring by twisting the two sides sideways rather than pulling them apart. This helps preserve its round shape.
Closed Jump Ring
A closed jump ring is soldered or welded shut.
Because it cannot pull open at the seam, it is often used where additional security is required.
Closed jump rings are useful around clasps, valuable charms, and other connection points where greater strength is desirable.
Oxidation and Tarnish
Oxidation describes a chemical reaction between a metal and substances in its environment.
With sterling silver, the dark surface commonly called tarnish is primarily associated with reactions involving sulfur-containing compounds in the air and surrounding environment.
Jewelry makers can also intentionally darken sterling silver to create an oxidized finish or antique appearance.
Pavé
Pavé is a style of stone setting in which many small gemstones are placed closely together across the surface of a piece of jewelry.
The stones are usually held by very small beads or prongs of metal, creating the appearance of a surface “paved” with gemstones.
Pavé settings are frequently used in:
- Charms
- Pendants
- Connectors
- Rings
- Earrings
Jewelry Pins
Jewelry pins are straight pieces of wire used to hold or connect beads and other components.
Ball Pin
A ball pin has a small metal ball at one end.
The ball prevents a bead from sliding off the end of the pin. The opposite end can then be formed into a loop and attached to another jewelry component.
Eye Pin
An eye pin has a pre-formed loop, or “eye,” at one end.
After beads are added, another loop can be formed at the opposite end. This makes eye pins useful for creating linked bead chains and rosary-style jewelry.
Head Pin
A head pin has a flat, round, or decorative head at one end.
The head stops beads from sliding off. Jewelry makers commonly form a loop at the opposite end to create:
- Bead drops
- Earring dangles
- Pendants
- Charms
Quality Tag
A quality tag is a small metal tag attached to a finished piece of jewelry.
Depending on the product and applicable marking requirements, a tag may display information such as:
- Metal quality
- Manufacturer's trademark
- Brand name or logo
Tags are usually attached to a chain or clasp using a small jump ring.
Rhodium Plating
Rhodium plating is a thin electroplated layer of rhodium applied to another metal.
Rhodium is a bright white precious metal in the platinum group and is commonly applied over sterling silver or white-gold jewelry.
It can provide:
- A bright white finish
- Improved resistance to surface tarnish
- A consistent finished appearance
Like other plated finishes, rhodium can wear over time depending on thickness, friction, and use.
Rose Gold
Rose gold gets its pink or reddish color primarily from the copper contained in the gold alloy.
Solid rose gold is made by alloying gold with metals such as copper and sometimes silver.
Jewelry can also be rose-gold plated, where a rose-colored gold alloy is plated over another metal.
These are two different constructions, so descriptions should specify whether an item is solid rose gold, gold-filled, or rose-gold plated.
Slider Bead
A slider bead is an adjustable finding designed to move along a chain or cord while still holding its position.
Many slider beads contain a silicone insert that grips the chain.
They are commonly used in:
- Adjustable necklaces
- Adjustable bracelets
- Bolo-style designs
The slider allows the wearer to change the jewelry length without using a traditional extender chain.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is a silver alloy containing at least 92.5% silver by weight.
The remaining portion usually consists primarily of other metals added to improve strength and durability.
Sterling silver is often marked 925.
Sterling silver is widely used for jewelry findings, chains, charms, clasps, and other components because it combines precious-metal value with good workability.
Wire Wrapping
Wire wrapping is a jewelry-making technique that uses wire to secure, connect, or decorate beads, gemstones, and other components.
Wire wrapping can be used to make:
- Wrapped loops
- Gemstone links
- Pendants
- Bead chains
- Decorative frames
- Handmade connectors
It is especially useful when soldering is not required or desired.
Vermeil
Gold vermeil is jewelry made with a sterling-silver base that is plated with gold and meets applicable thickness and fineness requirements for the term.
In the United States, vermeil generally refers to sterling silver plated with gold of at least 10-karat fineness and a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns.
Because vermeil uses sterling silver as its base metal, it differs from ordinary gold-plated jewelry made over brass or other base metals.
Choosing the Right Jewelry Findings
When selecting findings, consider more than appearance. Pay attention to:
- Material: sterling silver, gold-filled, gold over sterling silver, or solid gold
- Size: the finding should match the scale of the chain or beads
- Gauge: heavier connections may require thicker wire
- Opening size: make sure rings, bails, and clasps fit the chain or component
- Strength: connection points should be appropriate for the weight of the finished jewelry
- Finish: use compatible metal colors and finishes throughout the design
- Function: consider how easily the customer will be able to open, close, and wear the piece
Small findings often determine how well a finished piece of jewelry actually performs.
Shop Wholesale Jewelry Findings
AZ Findings supplies professional jewelers, designers, and jewelry businesses with wholesale jewelry findings in sterling silver, gold over sterling silver, 1/20 14K gold-filled, and 14K gold.
Our selection includes jump rings, clasps, pins, bails, beads, connectors, earring findings, and other jewelry-making components.
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